Welcome to BamfordRose and its forum chat time. This week I’ve got two form chats that I’m going to pick up on. First is about stone chipping and here we show a V8 Vantage and the poster says that he has “the annoying problem of stone chipping being brutal on this car”. Yeah, you can see there’s some mighty big stone chips on the front end of that car, “was not painted properly at the time. Have any of you ever had the front repainted? What did it cost?”
Here a complete front end repaint would be 2,250 plus VAT, so that’s a hundred percent of bumper wings and bonnet painted lacquered. That’s done off the car so that price involves removal and refit as well as the painting. I think these Astons especially on that front vertical surface of the bumper and just underneath the headlight do stone rash badly. Obviously, he feels that it wasn’t painted properly to start with. I don’t know about that. All I know is that you can buy the most expensive PPG lacquer. You can apply several coats. You can make sure it’s properly baked off in the booth and given time and the right driving conditions, maybe you’re quite close to cars in front of you. And even that expensive PPG lacquer dobbed on and you’re going to get some stone chipping happen.
If you’re going to keep the car for a long time, the answer is to do a complete front end respray and then do a complete front end protective film tape application. And then you’re not going to encounter this problem for many years because the tapes of today, self-healing tapes, are very durable and obviously the paint finish is going to remain protected, so you don’t have to respray.
If you were just into ownership of the car for a short term and you didn’t want to go to the expense of a respray and a full front end protective film, then the answer is to just give the bumper a respray, give the wings underneath the headlamps and the front core of the bonnet a respray, blend to the rest of those panels, so basically you freshen the car up and that will probably last for two or three years maybe about 10,000 miles before it needs correcting again because there’s more stone chipping.
Next forum chat is someone that’s got the tyre system fault, light on the dashboard, and asks, what could be wrong. And obviously, he knows that there’s two different types of sensors and which one he needs for his car. So, the easy way to find out what type of sensor new or old you need for your car is to scroll through on the dashboard, on the digital display, next to the speedo and if your car is the design level which displays each individual corner in a graphic of the car and then the tire pressure, then you’ve got the very latest Buru type sensors, which plug into the rim and play. You don’t need to code the serial number of those sensors to the car. The receiver, that’s on the chassis in each corner picks up the sensor so they are just plug and play.
If you haven’t got that display on the dashboard, then you’ve got the older tyre smart system. But tyre smart have gone out of business and now the sensor is remanufactured, remade by Buru. They do have a serial number and you do need to code those to the body control module using the AMDS kit.
The common question is that the driver can see that all four tyre pressures are recording properly because it’s on the newer type system and each individual tire pressure is shown, but you still got the yellow warning light on. Well, that warning light is coming on because one or a few of the sensors are getting close to the minimum battery threshold. So, regardless of whether you’re on the new system or the old system, then the actual price for the tyre pressure sensor itself is practically the same, approximately 150 pounds plus VAT each. So, if you need to replace all four, it’s certainly knocking on the door of 800 to 1000 pounds to get the system working, which is a lot of money and you really have to decide whether that is a functionality you really want on the car.
The older tyre smart system, you can just disconnect the box, which is located under the passenger footwell glove box area. And when you disconnect the box from the harness, the error message on the dashboard will disappear. On the newer type systems, you can’t do that. So, you’ll need to code the system out of the body control module config, which is really easy. You know, if that was done at point of service then the laptop has to go on the car anyway at point of service. So, it’s a simple job to code out the tyre pressure monitor system.
That means that’s the smart thing to do to get rid of the warning light if you don’t want that system because that costs absolutely nothing. Absolutely no point to buy one of those tyre pressure defeat devices out there that you plug into the harness and make the car think, make the dashboard think that there are no errors, so you get no error lights. If that was the best solution, then we would be selling a defeat device. But we know the best solution is to freely and easily put the laptop on the car and configure that functionality away from the body module, so you don’t get the error on the dashboard light. What you find is those people without that kit want to make their money from selling a piece of equipment in this instance, a TMPS Defeat Device, and they’re selling that hardware because they can’t do it the proper way, the pro way, which is what an independent specialist would do with AMDS.
I hope you like both those forum chats. As ever, it really helps us if you can like, comment, and subscribe and we’ll see you in the next forum chat.