Welcome to BamfordRose and it’s forum chat time. This week, we’re going to talk about an upgrade to 2018 Mercedes Vantage era cars, from single to twin tailpipe outlet. I picked up on a post that is related to the gearshift issues on sportshift on a 4.3 V8 Vantage. Before we get into that, it really helps us if you can like, comment, and subscribe to our channel. We’ll always keep the information here completely free of charge. All we ask in return is that you subscribe to us.
Okay, so the first image you can see here is the rear end of our Mercedes Vantage. This particular car has this single tailpipe outlet. If we zoom in there, you can see the diffuser section, with that sort of infill that dotted hold infill, with the single tail pipe outlet. So, I’ve seen posted questions on, what it takes to convert? And i just thought I’d show you the kit.
Here’s a car with the conversion already done. Let’s see on this red car, it’s got his twin tailpipe outlet. I don’t know why the factory didn’t do this from standard. Because you know, you compare that single tailpipe outlet to the twin. The twin just looks more complete. Yeah, it almost looks like that single tailpipe outlet has got something missing. Anyway, it’s really really easy to evolve your car to the twin tailpipe outlet.
Here we have the new infill section. Here we have each twin tailpipe section. So, here’s the tailpipe section itself. In the kit you get a completely new silencer box, with the twin outlets. You get the infill section to the rear bumper. And you get the exhaust tips, two for each side.
The kit retails for approximately 2 300 pounds. But i’ll combine it as well with a secondary D-cap to get bit better exhaust note, bit sharper on throttle responsiveness, a little bit more power. So together probably, if it was uh supplied and fitted here, we’re looking at about 2800 pounds for secondary D-cap and the quad tip upgrade to the rear bumper.
Whilst scanning through a forum finding that question. I found a post here. Obviously, someone has experienced loss of drive on sport shift gearbox, on probably a 4.3 V8 vantage. It says, “anyone here changes the clutch master cylinder?” i guess he means on his own without the full flywheel and clutch assembly. “the cars finally let me down no slipping clutch, but no more gear selection possible. Drove home locked in second gear. So before dismantling the whole thing doing a complete clutch job, i want to give it a chance with just the master cylinder”.
Really this car needs plugging in with AMDS. After about it’s only going to take 30 seconds interrogation. You’re going to be able to tell whether the clutch master cylinder is okay. You know all the clutch master cylinder is doing, is changing the stroke in and out to clamp and release clutch. Slave cylinder can fail, but its mode of failure is a leaky seal. And that’s going to be where it dumps the contents of the hydraulic automated shift manual fluid reservoir, underneath the gearbox at the back end of the car. So, if it’s retained all its fluid, i wouldn’t jump to the conclusion of the master cylinder being at fault.
But as i say, guess work and what is it to change that component, probably, about eight hours labor. It’s much more highly advisable to go and get some data find out what’s wrong. I anything to do with sports shift, if it’s misbehaving it needs AMDS. After that AMDS diagnostic read, you can very very quickly hone in on what’s wrong and what to do to fix it.
So stuck in second gear means that the hydraulic system hasn’t operated at all. So i think there’s going to be two reasons for this. One will be a simple fuse and it’s the 30 amperes in the back. And probably replace that fuse, pump springs back into life, and your system is going to work again. If it’s not the pump, it’s most likely going to be the transmission control module, had a little bit of an episode and it’s sort of like default stuck in a gear. Again, plug AMDS on and you can have a look. At communication with a trans module, see the traffic light status and do a fault code read of the trans module. But immediately, if it is a trans module. There’s going to be a DTC code to highlight that.
Thirdly if it isn’t the fuse that’s blown. The pump isn’t running. If it isn’t the trans module, that’s failed. So, the whole system isn’t working. Then it most probably has lost its fluid. Normal culprit will be the low-pressure pipes from reservoir to pump, and the return. So quickly crawl underneath the back of the car. If it’s a right-hand drive car, on the near side, look up at the back of the gearbox and you can see the reservoir, shine a torch up there and see if you can see if there’s any fluid in the system. It could be that the system has recorded that the clutch is worn past that threshold which bombs you out of any clutch engagement. But rather than disabling you in stuck in second gear, you’ll find that problem out when you start one day and then come to select drive and it just won’t select drive and you’re stuck in neutral.
But anyway, before diving into any fix, which might incur any spend on parts, really need that information from the diagnostic laptop read. I hope, you’ve liked this week’s forum chat. And we’ll see you in the next one.