Welcome to BamfordRose, and another forum chat. Before we get started on this one, really helps us if you can like, comment, and subscribe.
This week is a bit of a quick-fire series of questions surrounding purchase, some questions at purchase, and some common problems.
And I’ve picked these points up from a few comments on previous videos, together with a few other areas on the internet asking similar sorts of questions.
And I’ve rounded it all up; I’m going to address it all in a quickfire forum chat. So the first one is at point of purchase, you’ve looked at whether it’s v8, db9 from maybe 2005.
And you’ve been able to go on the dealer network system, enter the last six digits of the VIN and bring up all of the warranty claims that was originally made on that car in that zero to three year make a warranty period.
So the question was, is a big long list of items mean that the car is a lemon? And I’ve also seen the question on a car which had zero warranty claims during those first three years.
The average warranty bill on an Aston from that era, I know, was about 20, 25,000 pounds, which is pretty horrific.
Most normal car company’s quality departments would be fired if the car was going out with 20k in the boot, which is quite literally what that sort of warranty claim per car means.
So if you have a car that has nothing at all, no squeaks, no rattles, no wind noise from door, window seals. No anything recorded in that zero to three-year period; I probably think that means that that first owner wasn’t that meticulous on snagging the car.
Perhaps didn’t use it a lot. It was just a purchase of the latest and greatest car, instead of being a real petrol head ironing out problems with their new car. So I’d actually be very wary of any car if you did or were able to search the warranty history.
I’d actually be more wary of a car that had no warranty claims on than a car that had a big long list of things. So if a car did have a big long list of things in that zero to three year period, and that was perhaps from zero to ten thousand miles.
And now that car has got a good 30 or 40k on it, then it’s quite clear that all the problems were ironed out on that car, and that’s now more than likely going to be a good car to buy.
Often see more trouble with cars that are ultra-low mileage and have no previous warranty claims. The next is the new purchaser has typically asked the franchise dealer for the workshop history.
The service repairs any history on that car. And it’s so common to hear gdpr used as the scapegoat as to why there is no information about the car’s history whatsoever. But look, here’s the service book, and it’s got 15 dealer stamps in it.
It’s the 15 dealer stamps, which is the problem. It’s only in the independent world that the car gets properly cared for and serviced, and together with that level of service from an independent, you’re also going to get the raw service sheets.
And this is going to tell you all the good and all the bad with the car. It’s that prior history that you really want to go through and check everything to do with your new purchase.
Relying on a service book alone that just has franchise dealer stamps in isn’t the best due diligence for a purchase.
But from franchise dealers, it is often the case that there is no service history available; as I say, they all claim gdpr is the reason they can’t pass it on. Which I know from quite a few of our clients is infuriating to the previous owner.
A lot of owners meticulously care for their cars and are proud of the work that they’ve done to it. And they collect all of their service history inspection reports, all the invoices and very carefully put it together in a pack.
And when they sell the car, that pack is proudly presented, only for the dealer to throw it in the bin. It’s a car with a watch of service history that you’re after, to know that depending on the mileage, whether certain components have been replaced.
And just assess what the level of care that car has had from its previous owners. So unless you can put your hands on that service pack, I would really advise against the cars that just come with a service book with the franchise dealer stamps in.
Of course, the repercussions of gdpr can be extremely punitive. But if the previous owner has given that information up with the car, at the point of when they sold it, then they’re giving their permission for that to be passed on.
So even if the dealer did the basics of blocking out names and addresses, then that would be totally fine in terms of gdpr.
So you have to conclude that the reason they discount this information is more sinister, in that some of the service inspection sheets would indeed show a few things that the car was needing.
I think the whole buying market should vote with its feet on this one and refuse cars that just have a service book with dealer stamps.
The next one is often a weekly occurrence on different online forums. Have a new owner asking, okay? I’m thinking about taking my car to an independent for service.
Is this going to detract in some way from the care that the car is going to receive or future resale value? Now in terms of the future resale value.
This will be the franchise dealer, which is trying to use the fact that the car has been serviced out of the dealer network as a lever to drive down price.
But in actual fact, the car receives much better care at the independent compared to the franchise dealer. If you consider any of the prominent independents in the country. So you’re going to have Martin’s Aston services in Glasgow, Aston workshop in Durham.
AML performance in Macclesfield. Obviously, we’re in the Midlands, down South, you’ve got Nicholas Mee. Aston service workshops the Despond Smail group, all of these independents have been going for years; all have a good reputation.
So for anyone to try and lever down the price because it has one of these brand recognized specialist stamps in the service book is just totally wrong. All of the workshops I’ve just mentioned are workshops; they repair and service day in day out.
If it was a generic sports car service stamp, or an independent more renowned for sales, rather than actually repairing cars.
Or an independent that just concentrated on bolting motorsport upgrades on, then yes, you could question whether their servicing abilities were up to the abilities of the recognized independents.
And those stamps could probably raise an eye. But isn’t it funny, it’s the same franchise dealer network that’s only giving out a service book without any raw service information in it.
That then seems to suggest it’s the independent world stamp that would detract value, knowing that the car is going to get the ultimate care at the independent and that inspection sheet from the independent with all of the good and all of the bad is what you really want when you purchase a car, instead of a book that’s just got 15 or so franchise dealer stamps in.
Next is a couple of mechanical problems, I just want to address some specific questions.
The dreaded db9 engine tick, how prevalent is that? In terms of percentage the number of engines, the number of the cars that tick, versus the ones that are fine, obviously ticking engines is in the minority.
But there’s no rhyme or reason to how one of these early engines will develop the tick. So at point of purchase, you just want to do the test where you get the engine up to normal operating temperature.
This is a tick over. Raise the engine speed to about 3000 rpm, sit it there for about four minutes and then drop it down to tick over. If the engine is going to tick, it’s going to be that test that develops a tick.
The next is catalyst failure and ingestion of the failed brick into the engine. This problem is becoming more and more prevalent as the cars age because as the cars age, misfire is more likely.
Again, it’s a low percentage over the total amount of cars that were sold, but you don’t want it to happen to you because it’s a very expensive problem to repair.
As common as it is for us to repair catalyst failure, and repair, rebuild the engine, it never is one of our own customers.
Because you can preventative maintenance, avoid this situation by checking for misfire point of service, by being very careful about using the real-time misfire page to identify misfires at tick over, and low speed, low load driving.
So prevention in terms of detecting a misfire, and then doing something about low-level misfires that don’t put the light on, and the driver doesn’t feel before it turns into a bigger problem and then fails the catalysts.
So as I say, as common as it is for us to fix the carnage from a fatal case, it’s never ever been one of our own customers. These cars come to us for the first time for a repair.
Obviously, the ultimate preventative maintenance is just to take the primary catalyst out, it’s totally unnecessary and not needed. The automaker needed it to pass the emissions to be able to sell the car.
But now the car is out in the marketplace; you only need the secondary catalyst to pass MOT. So running around with the primary catalyst is just completely unnecessary. Remove the primary catalyst, remap the ECU, so you don’t get any error lights.
And then you’ll never have to worry about that problem ever again. You could misfire all the way from London to Brighton down the motorway, and if you’ve got the primary catalyst removed, there is no consequence.
Because it’s not going to, there isn’t a catalyst there to fail, so it’s not going to ingest any debris. Next question surrounding purchase, was on v8 vantage and clutches, and 05, 06, 07 cars now most of them are 30, 40, 50k.
And I’d say all of the cars in that age bracket when you’re buying either privately or from a dealer, either independent or franchised, is you need to see a receipt for a clutch.
If you can’t find a receipt for a clutch, then you need to be happy that the purchase price has got clutch renewal baked into it. Because if there is no evidence of a clutch change, especially plus 40k, then it’s certainly going to need one.
Obviously, the v8 vantage and db9 are drop dead gorgeous, classic timeless cars, and they’re in great demand.
Our YouTube channel here is pretty much the first anywhere, which is fleshing out a lot of issues with cars. This series is talking about what happens in a workshop, and obviously, a workshop is full of cars that need fixing.
So the message is that we want to get all of these problems out there talked about, identify preventative maintenance routes, identify the best way to fix a particular problem if you’re unlucky enough to be caught out by a problem.
Which all hopes to minimize the impact of such problems, meaning that if you are unlucky enough to be bitten by one of these problems, after a little bit of discomfort in a workshop having the problem fixed, you can go back to enjoying the car.
Obviously, a couple of problems we just discussed are pretty fundamental mechanical ones, and Astons do have problems with their electronic modules.
Door modules, roof modules, the odd body module. Astons have electronic works. But as I say, fleshing all of this out shouldn’t really put people off. They’re great cars to live with and own.
And if you were to scour Porsche forums, then there’s certainly more mechanical horror stories on Porsche than there are on Astons.
The Porsche does have some pretty fundamental and terminal engine failure problems. Now, although the v12 engine can have the failure from ingesting it’s catalyst. That’s because the catalyst failed, and the engine is a secondary effect.
The engine would have lasted pretty much forever because that v12 engine is bombproof. It’s all about doing due diligence at point of purchase, to know that you’re not buying a car that’s harboring a problem.
Then knowing what the potential problems could be during ownership, and either doing preventative maintenance to avoid them or seeking out repair at the best workshop.
So I hope that helps you prospective Aston purchasers, or those of you already purchased that want to do the best in terms of preventative maintenance for your car. We’ll see you in the next forum chat.